What this? Because the used swimming pool we purchase from. The wife's sister ended up having a small hole in the bottom.

Used in a 2020 1500 Ram Big Horn Crew Cab with bucket seats and center console. Mounted CB radio on top of the dash, a bit left-of-center (made an off-set bracket). Using dual, 4 foot, FireStik FireFly antennas in the front stake pockets on FireStik PL-259 Mounting Studs and FireStik quick disconnects on top of that, and was able to get an SWR of 1.0 in the mid channels and 1.4 on upper and lower channels.(I fabricated the stake pocket brackets from 1/8” stainless steel plate based on the drawings provided on the FireStik website – the FireStik brackets would not have fit my application and I could not find them for purchase anyway. The stainless steel “rusts” after a single rain, so I will refabricate out of 3/16” aluminum plate.) SEE PICSI could find little info about routing coax in this specific vehicle and had to figure it out for myself. I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE with a 1500 RAM BIG HORN, but it is ultimately up to you how you route your coax. Took me about 6 hours by myself. A second person would have made things go much quicker.FYI, 18 feet of coax (each leg) – is considered “ideal length” and is why it is often sold this way - seems like a LOT, but with this routing from the top of the dash to the front stake pockets, it only ended up having about 12 inches to spare at the stake pocket holes – and you need some slack to solder/attach new connectors and have enough room to connect to the stud in the stake pocket brackets. I did consider the FireRing solution, but not sure how it would have fit. I considered a “back rack” to get the antennas higher, but don’t think 18 feet would have been enough coax, “back racks” are fairly expensive, AND it turns out the SWR is good at the pockets with 4-foot antennas.It's important to read all about coax routing precautions like not having too sharp of a bend, pinching or crushing the coax, chaffing the outer jacket, etc. The FireStik website has a lot of good information about this. FOR EXAMPLE, they DO NOT RECOMMEND shortening the 18-foot cable(s) and explain what to do with excess coax; do NOT coil it into a loop! ALSO, you’ll want to be sure you are using RG-59, 75 Ohm coax for co-phase (2 antenna) applications, like this. (Do NOT use RG-58, 50 Ohm cable for co-phase.) Note in the pic of the back of my radio I used a 90-degree connector to eliminate either big loop or sharp bend between the dash and the radio.I was happy that I did not have to pull up any carpeting in the front and only had to reach underneath the carpet in the back seat (more later).I did the routing (direction) from radio to truck box antennas. For ease of routing purposes, I cut off the two single-coax "antenna end" PL-259 connectors (as close to the connector as possible) - these are molded and cannot be reused (don’t try to save them by leaving a few inches of coax - throw them away – connectors are “cheap” and you’ll want to keep all of that 18 feet that you can). I purchased two standard, solderable PL-259 connectors on Amazon. You COULD route the other direction - from the antennas to the radio - and cut off the one PL-259, but you should really get the PL-259 connector sized for dual coax (larger opening) and might be more challenging to find, as well as for some to solder two cables into one connector properly.There are good YouTube vids for how to take out the entire radio center stack assembly after removing 2 screws - it is easy but be gentle and use a trim pry tool and be careful not to damage any of the cables that go to this assembly once it pulls forward! (You may want a large pillow or rolled up blanket to prevent it from dropping too far out of the dash and tugging cables while working on it.)Also, I removed two little dashboard wing panels that run along each side of the console - these have plastic clips so use a trim pry tool and work them out carefully so you don’t break the clips.I flipped up the rear seats to give me room to work. Next, I lifted out the floor storage bin liners on each side then removed the 6 torx bolts holding the covers on each – you have to flip up the plastic tie-down ring covers (2) with a small screw driver to remove those larger torx bolts (2) – then the bin covers will come off and give access to the edge of the carpeting along there – you can reach your arm under the back seat carpet and, when finished, push the carpet back down where it belongs. (I did not remove the hex bolts securing the bins themselves, just the hinged covers.)There is a rubber liner in the top dashboard tray – I removed this and if I sell the truck later, I can replace it and no one will see the extra drilled holed in the top of the dash. You could drill through the rubber liner if you don’t care. (SEE PIC)When mounting the CB radio bracket in the top dashboard tray, I had the center stack forward and supported before drilling … I also drilled a hole behind the bracket just big enough for both coax runs – assuring there was clearance beneath this spot, too. Before ANY drilling, there is a plastic “center LCD display screen retainer bracket” that must be removed – 2 screws at the bottom and a clip, top center. (SEE PIC) I had to modify this a bit with a grinder on a Dremel tool to allow passage of coax left and right. I used a towel to catch grinding and drill shavings.I routed one coax leg left and one coax leg right around the radio and down each side of the center controls (be sure not to interfere with any ducts or other devices inside the dash). (SEE PIC) Went straight down to either side of the center console - the center console with bucket seats extends from the dash to the back seat.I did not remove or loosen the center console, but considered it at one point. Ran coax along each edge of the center console where the floor carpet meets. Tried to stuff it up in there along this edge by hand, but it was very tight about midway of the run and ended up using a fish tape from the back seat for a couple feet. After that, each coax was sticking out from under the lower edges of the console in the BACK seat – one left and one right.I used the fish tape under the carpet from the bin access areas in the back seat FORWARD to the split in the carpet under the front seats – where the front carpet meets the rear carpet - and pulled the coax out from under the console edge back to this split (so, I back tracked the other way a bit with the coax) and fished the coax on each side under the carpet from that split to the bin opening in the back seat.I then ran the coax under the carpet in the back seat along each in-floor storage bin (the metal seam around the container helps protect the coax from crushing but be careful not to pinch the coax when bolting the covers back down).About 4 to 6 inches rear of the bins are plastic “plugs” that protrude to the outside (SEE PIC) – from outside and under the truck, I drilled a hole just a bit larger than the diameter of the coax in the center of this plug, angled a bit toward the front of the truck. I put a heavy steel plate over the plug but under the carpet to I didn’t punch through and drill a hole in the carpet. From the back seat, with two hands under the carpet, I was able to fish the coax through the small hole and pull it through carefully from below with one hand, while feeding it from the top with the other.Underneath the truck, I tried to keep the coax as high as possible and as protected as I could – I routed though the cab shock absorber bracket with a bit of slack, then crossed over between the cab/box gap through a box shock absorber bracket with a bit of slack “at the cab/box gap” for twisting that can occur between cab and box. There is a welded rod frame structure to support the front of the rear fenders and I eventually zip-tied the excess to this after running the coax up into the stake pockets and finishing the antenna mounts. (SEE PICS)After soldering new connectors on each side, connecting them to the bottom of the antenna studs and securing the stake pocket brackets, I worked backward and zip-tied the coax. (I buy cheap zip-ties and they break occasionally, so you’ll see in the pics I doubled them up frequently. I’ll go back and check them after a few hundred miles of driving. Also, it’s better to have two snug ones than to have one that is so tight it crushes the coax.) There was no “looping of excess coax” but you can see in one pic I have a 270-degree loop that crosses itself perpendicularly. I try to avoid parallel runs of the same coax and/or coiling as much as possible, as this can affect performance.When putting the center radio stack back together, there is a little coax slack there, too – maybe 12 inches each – but it didn’t seem to affect performance much, if at all. It just hangs inside the dash loosely down toward the floor.In the back seat, push the carpet back down and carefully reassemble the rear seat floor bins so as not to pinch the coax when you tighten the torx bolts of the bin covers.

Works as it should

Good product

I was able to put two firestick antennas on my truck, 100 inches apart. Given the time and the fuse for my CB radio, I should be able to adjust the SWR rage and have a great functioning means of communication while moving on down the highway pulling a JAYCO Designer 36 RLTS fifth-whee trailer. Antennas were installed on a '01 F-350 Dually diesel 4 x 4 P.U.

Great product well made

I bought this for my husband. He is really happy with it. Exactly as described and arrived on time.