Its a Dorman so quality was acceptable, and it bolted on without any problem as well.Also it was almost a third of the price as a OEM from FORD.

Good fitment on car, not a fan of the self threading screws. No more coolant leaks, so that’s a great thing.

Installed easily and works great no leaks and better all in all made the motor in my Lincoln like new

If you are mechanically inclined, you can do it.Installed this on my 97 Mustang GT 4.6 L in about 5 hours.The O.E. Replacement intake is no longer available.

Just as described. Good product for the price!!!Works perfect. No more leaks!!!

This is actually my second replacement intake manifold for my '98 Crown Victoria. The first thing you should know here is that Dorman is not the only company manufacturing replacement intake manifolds. I believe that Dorman sold either the tooling or the rights to their design, so if you see a cheaper version of this intake and look at the photos and the product number and think, "Yup, it's exactly the same but with a different name painted on the front," know that it's not. The off-brand I bought (which uses the part number 615-178X--notice the "X") failed after three years of service. The plastic began breaking down and it started leaking coolant where the metal crossover meets the plastic intake body. Also, the off-brand manifold was slightly warped and required care and attention to get it to bolt on properly. It worked great and saved me between $60 and $100... but three years later I'm doing the job over again.The second thing to know is that Dorman has changed their design. The new 615-178 has thicker intake runners and slightly differently-shaped ports and gaskets. Also, the intake mounting surface is physically moved by several centimeters! This doesn't really change anything or cause any problems but I noticed it.Although everything ended up working out okay, you should be aware of the following:1. This replacement manifold uses self-tapping screws in place of the bolts and brass inserts used in the original part. Not a big deal as long as you're careful about installing them. I recommend you turn the screws into their holes unloaded first, then remove them and *then* mount your brackets or whatever. You don't want to have the bracket or coil or other item cause your self-tapping screw to go in at an angle. You only get one shot with these things.2. The original manifold (and the previous replacement design!) included a stud for attaching a ground wire to the fuel rail. This is missing with this design. You will have to either replace the ground wire's end with a ring that you can attach to a fuel rail bolt, or forego the ground wire entirely and leave it hanging off the firewall.3. Although the kit includes a replacement alternator mounting bracket (that you will need), you may ALSO need to modify the front throttle cable bracket. It fit perfectly on the original manifold and it fit perfectly on the old replacement design, but on this new one it does not fit unless you widen all three holes. They have moved the mounting bolt hole by just a few millimeters--just enough to make it not fit without modification.4. Although the kit includes a spacer for the thermostat housing, I did not need it on my '98 Crown Victoria. Your car may require it.5. The instruction sheet is absolutely awful. It is so unhelpful they may as well have not included it at all, except for the torque specs. Find a walk-thru online. There are some very good and helpful ones. Follow them.6. USE A TORQUE WRENCH and FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS regarding order, specification, and stages. The specified torque value is very low, lower than you would expect--but this is a thin-walled plastic part. Do NOT over-tighten it or you will crack it.That's it. Good luck. If you're careful and take your time (I spent six hours over two evenings), you should have no trouble and be back on the road. Just mind those torque values, be careful with the self-tappers, and follow the instructions! Happy motoring!

Purchased this manifold for a 1996 Lincoln Town Car to replace the original manifold that cracked at the thermostat housing. The unit came well packed and had the thermostat, the thermostat O-ring and two alternator brackets in the box along with the screws for the fuel rail and throttle body cable bracket. Though the installation is not overly hard it is time consuming. While I had the old manifold off I replaced the heater hose/pipe that runs under the manifold and is impossible to get to without first removing the manifold. If you do this swap you will also need to replace the rubber hose from the heater core to the new pipe. I found that removing the hose/pipe was more time consuming than any of the processes connected with the installation of the new manifold. The pipe has a bracket that is sandwiched under a rear bracket and has five nuts and a ground wire holding it in place. There is an interesting video on YouTube that shows a method to bypass this engineering marvel. Also, as recommended by another reviewer, I replaced the spark plugs when the manifold was off. When installing the new ones it is a good Idea to use spark plug anti-seize on the threads. It is also a smart move to purchase the 16 O-rings needed for the injectors.The only problem I had with the manifold is the infamous sheet screws that have to be threaded into the plastic standoffs that hold the fuel rail. One of the standoffs stripped out as I was tightening the screw. It looked like the hole for the screw wasn’t drilled deep enough and the screw bottomed out. A larger sheet metal screw solved the problem.Most of the nuts/and bolts used in the replacement process are 8mm and 10mm. I found it handy to use a ¼ inch ratchet to do most of the work on reassembly. I also took detailed photos before the disassembly just in case. An air ratchet worked well with removing the manifold hold down bolts; I also used ratcheting wrenches in hard to get to places.The whole process took 8 hours. I quit after 6 hours and left the final assembly for the next day, that way I would be fresh if there were any problems which there weren’t. I found that the detailed description of this replacement can be found at www.autoclinix.com; it was very helpful.

At first I wasn't thrilled with the potential of getting the Doreman intake manifold for my 1997 Mustang GT. I wanted to upgrade a bit and get something slightly better than stock. That isn't possible because the "Performance Improvement" heads were not in production until the 99 model year, and I had no desire to spend gobs of $$$$ to add them to my car now just to buy a more expensive IM. Some of the online reviews have not been kind to Doreman. Well, Amazon delivered it promtly in March ....and my buddy was able to do the install on 3-17-12. My bud is a former master tech with a local Albuquerque Ford dealer. So even with a few distractions at his house that Saturday morning, he managed to get it in and reconect everything within 4 hours tops. Its been in my car now for more than 2 months and has performed like a charm. My car has more than 162K miles, and one one level, it is a big surprise that the OEM manifold lasted this long (I recently bought this Stang in August 2011 for only $3200). My car still has good torque response and it sounds pretty agressive. Really sounds like a Cobra, but the IM has nothing to do with that (likely thanks to the Flowmaster exhaust). For a basic solution, I definitely recommend the Doreman IM for your 4.6L Ford V8. Grading on a curve, a good Ford tech should be able to get this in witin 3-4 hours. 5+ hours for you DIY peeps.